Moving a mature tree or shrub

By Melanie Mathieson
Gardening Guru

Often there are times when we have a tree or shrub planted in our yard and it seems to be in the wrong spot. Although it has been there for years and gotten larger, it is just not working. This column is intended to explain how to move a large tree or shrub to a new location giving it the best chance of survival. This is a two part process so be patient and follow the plan, in order to get the most success in your relocation project.
When you plan to move a tree or shrub that is quite large (over 6 feet tall) and has been planted in this location for a number of years, you will have to follow this process because of the large established root system. Smaller trees or shrubs that haven’t been planted for multiple years, which you can easily dig around the entire roots system and picked up out of the hole you dug can be moved to a new location any time.
1. With most evergreen shrubs and deciduous shrubs it is a good idea to try and reduce some of the foliage area by trimming them back(never more than 1/3 at a time). This is best done in August as the tree/shrub is beginning to go dormant. Trimming should not be too extensive as the only reason for reducing the foliage is to stop excessive water loss from the leaves and balance the plant in regards to the root system which you will have reduced in the digging up process. It is important to remember that a plant will always balance itself so that its mass in the ground will equal the mass above ground and if you remove some the roots in the process of digging up, the plant will naturally shed leaves to achieve a natural balance. When trimming, take a look at the overall shape of the tree/shrub and make any necessary aesthetic trimming part of this process.
2. If possible, this step is best carried out in the early dormant season, ideally the mid-September to mid-October, but if you take extra care you can carry out this first step in August. Begin digging a hole,well around the tree/shrub. You want to use the diameter of the branches (also known as the dripline) as the guide to start digging. This is the area where the feeder roots (tender white roots) of the tree/shrub will be found. You will dig a hole that is about 2/3 of the way around the roots do not dig under the plant at this time, just the sides. The hole should look like you started to dig, gave up and left the job undone. It may seem difficult to leave the tree/shrub like this but the purpose is for the tree/shrub to stay in the ground with 1/3 of its root system intact and function while the other 2/3 of the root system recovers from the shock of having its feeder roots sheared off by the shovel. The ends of the roots where you dug will harden off and form new buds. Once planted in its new location the buds will form new roots. Now you must leave the tree/shrub like this over the winter. It is a good idea to construct a temporary windbreak from burlap for the tree/shrub in order to reduce excess moisture loss from the branches/needles over the winter.
3. In the spring or early summer (best time is before the tree/shrub leafs out for the season) pick the spot that you are moving this tree/shrub to. Dig a very large hole and mix some manure or compost into the bottom. A sprinkle of bone meal on top of the compost will help with root production. Now go and dig the tree/shrub from itsspot. The digging this time will be a loteasier as you are only digging the last 1/3.
4. Remember the key here is to remove the plant from the soil with as much root and soil as possible. Wrap the rootball before moving the plant with some plastic or material sheeting to prevent further soil loss while moving the plant. The reason for this is to keep the very small roots in contact with the soil in the rootball and prevents drying out.
5. Now the tree/shrub is in place in its new hole you can start adding the soil. When you get about half way, sprinkle in some more bone meal, repeat at the surface of the soil too. When complete, make sure that the soil is well firmed around the roots so that the roots are effective in gaining water for the plant. Then, in order to make sure that the plant is well settled in, give it a steady soaking around the roots for about an hour. Once planted the tree/shrub will need watering every day even if the weather has been fairly wet.
6. If the shrub has been moved to a windy site it is a good idea to construct a temporary windbreak (from burlap) which will stop the leaves losing excess moisture. If you find that the tree/shrub seems to have leaned over after a few days, straighten, then make sure the soil is firm but not too tight around the base. At this point, staking is a good idea until the roots seem to have established themselves fully and can support the tree/shrub (usually one to two years after replanting).
Now that you have relocated the tree/shrub, remember that this is a shocking process for a plant of this size and it will take time for the plant to recover. During this summer season, it may take a longer time for it to leaf out compared to the other trees and shrubs in your yard but be patient. Make sure the plant is well watered throughout the season it should remain moist but not soggy the entire summer. You may find that some of the remaining branches do not leaf out this season. Just be patient and the following year you can prune them away once the tree/shrub leafs out and these branches fail to produce leaves.
This can be a difficult job,but patience and care in following these instructions will provide you with the best success. Although this process does not guarantee 100% success,it does increase the success rate substantially compared to digging up the tree/shrub in one step and moving it right away. Good luck with your project.