Gardening in dry and shady locations

By Melanie Mathieson
Gardening Guru

Many gardeners already know that most shade loving plants prefer moist soils, so when a gardener encounters an area that has dry shady conditions even an experienced gardener may opt to leave the area bare or just cover it with a mulching product. Dry shade can provide a special challenge for gardeners but this column will help to diminish the myths of successful gardening in dry shady conditions.
You may have an area in your yard that is quite dry and shady because it’s under a grove of trees or the eaves of the house or other outbuilding. Or maybe it is just a part of your yard that is shady, possibly sheltered by a fence or wall, and has well-drained soil, like sand. Many gardeners are reluctant to produce a perennial bed in moist shade never mind in a shady location with dry soils. With a few hints and tips you will soon be enjoying perennials and/or annuals in one of these challenging areas in your yard.
Many gardeners believe the common myth that nothing will grow under pine or spruce trees because dropped needles turn the soil acidic over time. However, the real reason many plants don’t thrive under evergreens is extreme dryness. The cure: If you plant perennials in dry shade conditions, water deeply once a week and layer mulch over the soil. Another option is to place a decorative layer of mulch down and then strategically place shade-loving plants (annuals are best) in containers, under your evergreen trees instead. If your shade loving plants are a little too shaded let more light into the area by limbing the trees. Cut off some of the bottom branches, up to about ten feet up if they are trees older than 25 years or if the trees are under 25 years old 2-3 feet is enough. This can be done with both deciduous and evergreen tree species.
When preparing the dry area for planting, I recommend adding about 6-10 inches of good quality top soil if you are starting with virtually no soil. If you have some soil in place already, add a very generous layer of organic compost (4-6 inches) to the top of the soil and work it in. Once you have the plants planted and established I recommend adding a layer of organic mulch (bark, woodchips or straw) to the surface of the soil to help retain the moisture. Even after all of this soil amendment you will still have to water the garden artificially and frequently even if you have an above average rainfall during the growing season because the tree branches prevent the rain from reaching the soil The best system for watering in this area is to use soaker hoses. You can install soaker hose right on top of the soil or mulch. The best way to install this hose is to lay it on the soil before you apply the mulch. You can “pin” it in place by using pieces of wire (coat hangers) bent into a “U” shape. Invert the “U” over the hose and push down into the soil until it makes contact with surface of the hose. Don’t push the pin in too far or you will kink the hose, you are just holding it place so it won’t move This will keep the hose in place semi-permanently. Apply the mulch right over the hose making sure you keep the ends above the mulch so you can hook the hose to the water source. This is a very efficient way to water any garden whether in the shade or not because close to 100% of the water applied to the soil soaks into the ground. If you are using another sprinkler system make sure you leave it on long enough to thoroughly soak the ground. Keep in mind that you may have to keep the sprinkler on longer if tree branches shield the garden. Of course you should apply fertilizer using a high quality brand that is either granular or water soluble. When applying fertilizer follow the directions on the package for perennial gardens or annuals depending on what you have planted, unless there is a regimen listed specific for shady conditions, then use that recommendation.
Another way to enhance your success at shade gardening, in dry conditions, is to adapt the species of plant that you are using to those that thrive in these conditions. The following perennial plants will perk up any dry, shady spot in your garden. Be sure to water any new plants well, in the first couple of months, while they’re getting established.
Barren strawberry: A low-growing, dense mat of leaves that slightly resemble those of strawberries.
Perennial geranium: Attractive and aromatic leaves, flowers in late spring in colors ranging from white to pink and magenta, depending on cultivar. Not to be confused with the common annual geraniums of the genus Pelargonium.
Barrenwort: Attractive heart-shaped leaves. With its delicate yellow flowers, ‘Sulphureum’ is the most popular cultivar.
Lamium: Look for cultivars such as ‘Beacon Silver’ with rosy pink flowers and silver leaves edged in green or the white-blooming ‘White Nancy’. This is a rapidly spreading plant.
Heart-leaved bergenia: Large, leathery leaves and rose-pink flowers in early spring—looks great in a big grouping. Very versatile plant for moist or dry conditions.
Sweet woodruff: Finely textured leaves and white flowers in spring—top-flight ground cover in the dry shade garden. Will spread nicely.
Bear Berry: a nice evergreen perennial that grows well in our area in the wild. The horticulture species is a little taller than the wild variety about 8 inches high. Leaves are small round and almost leathery looking, range from dark green in shady areas to a deep burgundy in areas with intense sun.
Lambs Ear: nice velvety silver-green leaves. Will tolerate these conditions but will spread slower than when planted in areas with more light.
European Bistort (bottle brush): a really interesting plant that would make a good border plant or a really interesting ground cover under an area of trees. Shiny oval shaped leaves, the plant stands about 1 foot tall, with spikes (2 feet tall) of pink or white flowers that look like mini-cattails from afar or a “bottle brush” up close, hence the nickname.
Lungwort: Green hairy leaves with white spots, flowers in early spring with small blue-violet flowers that fade to pink.
Hosta: many of the Hosta species will tolerate the lower moisture conditions of this site. Look for species with all green or “blue” leaved varieties for best results. Also look for dwarf varieties if you need an interesting low-growing plant for a border plant.
Silver Mound: a hardy perennial that has dusty silver-blue leaves and a subtle sage-like scent. This plant grows compact mounds that make great border accents.
Annuals: don’t forget that begonias, impatients, monkey flower, dusty miller, allysum and portulaca can tolerate drier shady conditions if you would like to add some annual flowers to your
Although you’re most likely to find dry shady conditions under trees with wide- spreading, shallow roots, such as maple, basswood, pines and spruce, you can add another dimension of texture and texture to any dry shady location in your yard by following these tips.